Jordan (Part III)

Jerash is situated in the northern part of Jordan and about a 30 minute drive from Amman (the capital) and located near a tributary of the Jabbok River. With fertile land and a fresh water supply, the land prospered. However, earthquakes and wars destroyed this city and due to its arid location (lots of sand), it was wonderfully preserved until discovered in 1806. Abraham, an old Testament prophet, may have passed through a city called Jershon and scriptorians conclude it could possibly be another name for the ancient Jerash.

Jerash controlled the northern end of Kings Highway and therefore the inhabitants of this ancient city prospered through the taxing of Arabian goods and Nebataean wares that traveled this route. Jerash is considered one of the most important Roman cities in the Near East and was said to once have 60,000 inhabitants.

We entered through the south entrance and were surprised to find the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world! Built to commemorate the visit of the Emperor Hadrian to Jerash in 129 AD, this triumphal arch was intended to become the main gate to the city. The ancient city is graced with the Oval Plaza, two theaters, a Hippodrome, the Triumphant Gate, a fountain and temples including those devoted to Zeus and to Artemis.

Photo: Hadrian's Arch which was built in honor of its namesake and our students were excited for a group photo. Inhabited since the Bronze Age, we were about to learn that the ruins were from a Greco-Roman settlement.

Ancient Jerash was an open city (without fortification) of freestanding structures of richly embellished marble and granite. Its engineering was so advanced that large parts of the city still survive today.

Our students always seem to find creative ways to have their photos taken.

The Hippodrome is massive arena was 800' long and 170' wide and could seat 15,000 spectators for chariot races and other sports. Construction is estimated between the mid-2nd to 3rd century AD. There are regular enactments when gladiators and charioteers appear before crowds. I was lucky enough to snap a photo during a rehearsal.

Photo: A mosaic floor of a church. Photo below: When we arrived at the South Theater, a group of musicians were waiting to entertain us and in a very conspicuous place, was a large tip box.

Photo: South Theater. The 1st level of the stage was originally a two-story structure but was reconstructed and is still used for special events today.

Built during the reign of Emperor Domitian, between 90-92 AD, the South Theater can seat more than 3,000 spectators.

After the musicians finished and collected tips, a guide explained that the theater's remarkable acoustics allow a performer at the center of the orchestra floor could be heard throughout the entire auditorium without raising his voice. Brianne, a JC student majoring in opera, demonstrated by singing a famous aria and we could hear her perfectly. It was pretty amazing considering it was such a large, open space.

As we walked along, we could see a large area of columns called the Oval Plaza. This magnificent plaza represents Jerash in its grandeur. The oval shape is unique and the plaza was actually built to connect the Cardo (the main street of Jerash) with the Sanctuary of Zeus. In order to join areas which were not aligned, the street was widened into an oval shape in front of the main access to the sanctuary.

Photo: Looking down on the Oval Plaza from a hilltop nearby.

Photo: Remaining top pieces of columns in the Cardo.

Photo: The Cardo was the main street of Jerash. The Cardo was lined with a broad sidewalk and shops and an underground sewage system ran the full length of the street into which rainwater was channeled through holes on both sides of the street. It is still paved with its original stones and bears the ruts of chariot wheels. As part of a remodeling of the street around 170 AD, the original Ionic columns were replaced with more decorative Corinthian colonnades.

Photo: This photo gives you a better perspective of the Oval Plaza looking down from the Temple of Zeus. Because the ancient city had an estimated 60,000 imhabitants, more than 15 churches have been discovered. In 614 the Persians invaded Jerash, in 636 the Arab-Muslims conquered it and in 749 an earthquake caused massive destruction.

Photo: Temple of Zeus.

This is the gateway of a 2nd century Roman Temple of Dionysus. In the 4th century the temple was rebuilt as a Byzantine church now referred to as the Cathedral.

Corinthian columns of the hilltop of the Temple of Artemis rise upward 50' and those columns dominated the city.

Photo: Ancient inscription on stone.

Photo: A new water wheel built to replace the original one.

After a couple of hours at Jerash, everyone was anxious return to our air conditioned buses. Despite the heat, we loved seeing the ruins and learning about the history of this amazing ancient city. Our next stop will be the Ajloun Castle. (Part IV)