YMCA Carillon in Jerusalem

One of the many responsibilities we have in our assignment with the Jerusalem Center is the opportunity to play the Carillon, a landmark in Jerusalem. The Carillon is located in the top of the tower of the YMCA Hotel which is located on David Street directly across from the King David Hotel.  

The tower of the YMCA pictured in this photo rises 152 feet above the ground. This

 is the road we drive on our way to the underground parking garage of the hotel. 

The historic building has always served as a center of culture, sport 

and a place of reconciliation since its establishment.

In 1924, Archibald Clinton Harte (General Secretary of the International YMCA) raised the sum of one million dollars with the aid of donations from the United States and Manchester, England, and a plot of land was purchased from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Jerusalem.  Harte's vision was to build a permanent YMCA building which would also serve as an International YMCE conference facility. The cornerstone was laid in 1928 by Lord Plumer (British High Commissioner for Palestine). 

As previously mentioned, the YMCA Hotel (also known as the Three Arches Hotel) is located directly across the street from the King David Hotel, the same hotel where President Trump stayed when he visited Israel. This outdoor hallway leads to a lovely auditorium and concert hall and to the hotel. (Notice the decorative caps of the columns in neo-Byzantine style. Because we have a desert tortoise, I found it particularly interesting to see tortoises on the caps.)

The Jerusalem International YMCA has been serving the people of Jerusalem and providing community service to all of Jerusalem's residents for  over 100 years and before the structure was built. The YMCA is a place where all residents can gather and enjoy culture, youth programs, health and fitness, pre-school, summer camps and concerts. It is also boasts a 4 star hotel rating for 56 rooms. In the basement of the hotel, is a small non-denominational chapel and in the very top of the dome is also a small chapel. The lower lower has the first city's heated swimming pool, the first gymnasium with a wooden floor, a fitness room and also lockers. Until 1991, there was a YMCA stadium, the only soccer stadium in Jerusalem. The focus on the YMCA is to facilitate peaceful coexistence between communities in a city that is divided by conflict.

The Jerusalem International YMCA was nominated for the Nobel Peace Award and celebrates what unites us rather than what divides us. This philosophy also parallels that of BYU's Jerusalem Center as people unite themselves through the performance of music.

Photo: This lovely auditorium is where concerts are held almost weekly and located to the left of the hallway pictured above which also leads to the hotel. It is the oldest concert hall in Jerusalem and can seat 600 people. The first concert broadcasts of the "Voice of Israel" radio station were transmitted from the YMCA auditorium.

David Hatch, American pianist and author, brought a group of his students and 

presented a piano recital in August, 2016.  

Directly outside the YMCA hotel is a lovely area where guests can sit 

and enjoy a drink or light meal from the restaurant inside.

After seven years of construction, the new Jerusalem YMCA was dedicated in 1933 with the words “Here is a spot whose atmosphere is peace, where political and religious jealousies can be forgotten and international unity be fostered and developed.”  It is often referred to as the "Sermon in Stone."  

Three inscriptions, Jewish, Christian and Muslim are engraved on the building's facade: "The Lord, our God, the Lord is One," in Hebrew on the right. In the center in Aramaic: "I am the Way" and on the left in Arabic: "There is no God but God."

We meet a group of students from the Jerusalem Center on Sunday mornings to ring in the hour at 11 AM and play until Noon when we ring out the hour. It's a really fun experience for anyone who has the desire to play or just watch.  Since our stay in Jerusalem, Christmas and Easter have fallen on Sundays, so it has been especially meaningful to play on those special holidays.  It has been an experience we shall never forget and an opportunity we'll never have again.  

The Carillon plays a large part of the celebration in Jerusalem at Christmas for Christians. The Christmas tree in front of the YMCA is lit up the first of December after which a concert on the Carillon is performed.  Crowds gather around to sit and listen to a special Christmas concert after the lighting of the Christmas tree in front. These unique bells are one of a kind in the Middle East and the bells can be heard throughout the city.

Photo:  December, 2016.  Christmas decorations stay up through most of January. 

This is a little better view of the King David Hotel across the street.  It's very luxurious and the rooms are pricey. Our first visit to the Carillon was in January, 2016, after we had just arrived in Israel and was nothing like anything we had ever expected. As you can see, Christmas decorations were still on the trees in front of the YMCA.

Because so few Christians live in Jerusalem, Christmas decorations are not seen unless a hotel or vendor is Christian. Having a beautifully decorated Christmas tree was a welcome site and made us feel more at home.  

                   This beautiful leaded glass window graces the doorway into the hotel.

We were pleasantly surprised to see such beautiful Christmas decorations inside the YMCA.

The YMCA Hotel was designed by Arthur Loomis Harmon, architect 

of the Empire State Building (US) in neo-Byzantine style.

The structure in rich in symbolism. Decorative elements represent the three monotheistic faiths: the 12 cypress trees in the garden signify the 12 tribes of Israel, the 12 disciples of Jesus and the 12 followers of Mohammed. This theme is repeated inside the auditorium and gymnasium, with 12 windows lighting the domes and 12 stone arches which rise above the balconies. 

Photo:  Exterior of auditorium at YMCA.

The 40 columns in the courtyard symbolize both the children of Israel's 40 years of wandering in the desert and the 40 days of the temptation of Jesus; their capitals are embellished with images of the flora, fauna and people of the land.  

Instead of a soccer field, now is a beautiful courtyard area, some hi-rise apartments, 

and an underground parking garage.

When the building opened on April 18, 1933, the event was attended by YMCA leaders from around the world.  The photos  above show some newer additions to the hotel and courtyard.

Every time we visit the YMCA, I have to take a moment and look at the

 beautiful arched window in the lobby.  There is also a library and reading
room on this level.

The restaurant inside the hotel adds charm and ambiance to the hotel.

Photo:  Staircase to the Carillon.

We are going up a very steep staircase of 142 steps (5 flights) which

 leads to the room which houses two carillon consoles.  Three more flights

of stairs take us near the top of the tower to a lookout.  

A very old window from the tower opens out on the city below.

The YMCA Carillon has 35 bells and was installed in 1930 with bells made by Gillett & Johnston.  The keyboard range is CC/CE.  The heaviest bell is D# in the middle octave.

The pitch of the bells does not match the key.  In other words, if you play a C on the console, the pitch that sounds is a minor 3rd above which is an Eb.  Confused?  You won't be unless you have perfect pitch!

The bells are operated by springs and flappers. Humidity will cause the springs to loose their function and after many years of weathering, the bells are in need of repair.  Music written by Bach, Mozart, Hayden  lends itself to playing on the Carillon.  In other words, music from Harry Potter movies doesn't suit the Carillon.

The largest bell weighs 1-1/2 tons! Centuries ago, bells were placed in the towers of churches but once there are more than 12 bells, they become what is called a "Carillon." The bells are made of iron bronze is layered inside to change the pitch. The bells sound better in warmer weather verses cold. 

This is a level above the room where we play the Carillon. One more flight up takes us to a winding and much smaller staircase.  Photo: (Spring/Summer Semester 2016)

Another flight takes you up to a place to view the city of Jerusalem.

View from the 8th level.

Looking down from the tower. You can see the Jerusalem Center in the distance along the horizon.

Students from the Spring/Summer 2017 semester. 

Spring/Summer 2017 students at the top of the bell tower.  It is 59 steps down

 to the room on the 5th level with the two carillon consoles.

Photo:  Carillon consoles.  

This is the room where we play each Sunday.  One console is for practice 

and the other is attached to the bells that ring out over the city.

Photo: the practice console.

The Carillon is in need of repair and funds are being raised for the purpose of refurbishing it.

The Jerusalem Center has committed $5,000 towards this project.

This photo was taken our very first visit to the Carillon in 2016.  I was BYU's Carillon Bell Master from 1964-66 while attending college, but it was an entirely different set up.  The console at the YMCA has wooden pegs you hit with your fists. They hurt my hands so I opt to pull each with my fingers.  

Professor Gaby Shefler, Resident Carillonneur, presented a short recital to the winter 2017 semester students. 

Every year, the YMCA hosts a Christmas Carol Concert  Christmas Eve at 8pm in the auditorium and Professor Gabi Schefler plays a concert on the Carillon. The entire month of December is full of holiday events and celebrations, multi-cultural and holiday happenings for all faiths at the YMCA.

Photo:  Ben and Jace (Spring/Summer 2017 Semester)

The students were excited to play the Carillon and then we had a surprise visitor! Professor Gaby Shefler is the resident carillonneur who lives in Jerusalem. He also teaches at our neighbor, the Hebrew University.

  Professor Shefler was delighted to see the students playing and 

offered to show them some of his techniques.  

Professor Shefler is Chief Psychologist at the Hebrew University and a widely published writer.  His most recent publication is titled: Internal Representations of the Therapeutic Relationship Among Adolescents in Psychodynamic Psychotherapy.  He and his wife invited Garth and I to their home a few months ago and were so gracious and we always look forward to seeing him.  

He explained that he uses is fists to play each note (peg) rather than his fingers.  I have tried
this technique but it hurts my hands so I pull the pegs to make them sound. The students were enthralled and he wowed them with a short recital.

 

Professor Shefler demonstrated how to play the Carillon.  He said he 
is not a "professional" but I would certainly beg to differ.  

Photo:  Spring/Summer 2017 semester.

Jerusalem International YMCA strives to foster brotherhood and friendship between Christians, Muslims and Jews through joint activities.  Guided tours are offered throughout the facility.

Photo:  Daniel & Shannon - Spring/Summer 2017 semester.

When one our oldest daughter and her family visited us in December, 2016, Professor Jo Haazen was in town to give a Christmas concert at the YMCA.  He was staying at the hotel and when he heard us playing, he came up and introduced himself.  We were thrilled when he offered to play a private recital!  He was charming and explained that he lives in St. Petersburg (Russia) and teaches organ and the carillon. He had also come to meet with a committee to discuss the planning of a major renovation of the bells. He is on the Faculty of Arts at Saint-Petersburg State University in Russia. He speaks seven languages, was an instructor of aesthetics, music education and from 1968-81 he was appointed municipal carillonneur in Antwerp (a Flemish village in Belgium).  He studied organ and piano accompaniment at the Royal Flemish Music Conservatory in Antwerp and carillon at the Jef Denyn Royal Carillon School in Mechelen (Belgium). He also spent some time telling us about the many Carillons he has played in Europe. The photo below was taken from the web which shows him playing the largest bell in the world!

Photo below: Looking down from the YMCA bell tower at the King David Hotel.

Modern technology certainly makes it easy when you want to 

play a song we don't have music for.

Photo:  Fall 2016 Semester students.  

A picture says a thousand words and the smiles on the faces of 

these students, bring back a lot of good times.  

Photo: Spring/Summer 2017 semester students.

We concluded our visit to the YMCA by walking down a very small spiral staircase to the lowest level in the YMCA where a small non-denominational chapel is located.  Since it was July 2 and in celebration of the 4th of July, we sang some familiar American songs.

This is a very small pump organ in the chapel.

We had a great time at the YMCA with the students and Professor Shefler. With the Spring/Summer semester coming to a close in August, we only have a few Sundays left and then we will all be homeward bound!