RAMADAN in the Holy Land

Palestinian flag

Once each year, Muslims all over Israel join other Muslims around the world taking part in the religious practice known as Ramadan. According to the Muslim calendar, it was believed to be the ninth lunar month when the first verses of the Qur'an were revealed to the Prophet Mohammed.  

After living in Jerusalem for more than one year, we have become accustomed to the names of territories (West Bank and Gaza Strip) governed by the Israeli government and places we are not allowed to travel to. The two areas are collectively known as Palestine and are greatly disputed over between the government of Israel and the government of the Palestine. Muslims occupy 80-85% of the population of the West Bank and 99% of the population of the Gaza Strip.

In 2000, a barrier wall was built to stop the wave of violence inside Israel but has made it even more difficult for Muslims living in the West Bank and Gaza Strip to leave and pray at the Al-Aqsa Mosque not only during Ramadan but also Fridays when they also pray at the Temple Mount.  Not just Muslims, but all others living in the West Bank do not have the freedom to come and go freely. They must have permits and pass through checkpoints and barriers and are forbidden the usage of roads from the West Bank. To say the least, it has made life much more difficult for residents in those territories.

On a more positive note, right before the beginning of Ramadan (Friday, 26 May), the Israeli government  announced that it would ease restrictions on Palestinians from the West Bank and Gaza during the entire Muslim holy month of Ramadan.  This also included easier access to the Al-Aqsa Mosque (Jerusalem), and as many as 500 travel permits were issued to allow Muslims coming from abroad flying into the airport in Tel-Aviv.  

In addition, men over the age of 40 and women and children under age 23 will not be required a permit to pray at the Al-Aqsa Mosque on the Temple Mount.  Permits were also issued to men between the ages of 30 to 40 for prayer for the entire month of Ramadan and checkpoint crossings between the West Bank and Israel will remain open for longer times, making it easier for those residents to enter and return for prayers.  Also, up to 200,000 permits for family visits in Israel will be given for the duration of Ramadan without age restrictions. Many other restrictions have been lifted during the whole month resulting in an estimated 300,000 worshipers who will gather at one time on the Temple Mount.  Life for Muslims living in Israel is complicated and this time of year is very important to Muslims and the privilege to pray at Al-Aqsa Mosque.  

(I might mention that Bethlehem is in the West Bank so when tourists come for a visit, they cannot drive a rented car into the city and must walk from the checkpoint.  However, a guide can take them in in his vehicle.)  

What is Ramadan?  Ramadan is a month of submission to Allah, the creator. It is the month of loving, sharing and a month of repentance. The start of Ramadan can vary in different places as people still rely on someone seeing the new moon with the naked eye.  

Observing Ramadan is a core belief of Islam and the time through fasting and abstinence from food drinks and other vices such as smoking, coffee, alcohol, etc. Participants are supposed to focus their mind on prayer, chastity, purification of the body and mind, spirituality and charity. Fasting it to remind one of the importance of self-control and the suffering of the poor. Muslims observing Ramadan are not permitted to eat or drink as soon as the sun rises until dusk throughout the month.

The fast is strictly observed by all adult Muslims.  Children are not required to fast under the age of 9 or even until puberty, but some choose to begin shorter fasts in preparation for their adulthood. The elderly, sick, and mentally ill are exempt from the fasting along with pregnant and those nursing their newborns. In some Muslim communities, people who miss the fasting portion of Ramadan feed the poor and needy during the suhoor and iftar meals.  

Photo:  Al Aqsa Mosque, Temple Mount in Jerusalem (Islam’s third-holiest site)   

After the evening meal, Muslims go to the Temple Mount and pray.

I was talking with one of the employees of the Jerusalem Center this week and he said he goes to pray every night after iftar during the month of Ramadan. 

The first week of Ramadan, the local news stated a grand total of 280,000 people from East Jerusalem and the West Bank went to Al-Aqsa Mosque for Friday prayers to mark the start of Ramadan.

While Muslims do not celebrate the Sabbath like Jews or Christians, they do have a day of prayer which is Friday.  The word for Friday in Arabic comes from the name for the special prayer that is done only on that day. Friday is the day Muslims are expected to pray at a mosque but on all other days of the week they may pray privately.

All men are required to attend Friday prayers but for women it is voluntary. Once inside, men and women pray in separate areas. In some countries, Muslims go to a mosque when the call to prayer is sounded from the nearest minaret or tower. The call is similar to church bells in Christianity, calling people to worship, although the call is considered a prayer because the words are recited from the Qur'an.

Photo:  I took this photo when a guide took us inside Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem.

In places where there is no call to prayer, the tradition of gathering on Friday is still observed. For Muslims, these prayers are a powerful act of remembrance of Allah and an important part of community building. Although inspiring to see, we have learned to avoid Fridays in the Old City due to the crowding of Palestinians coming from prayer at the Temple Mount. 

Photo:  Muslim inside Al Aqsa Mosque, Temple Mount, Jerusalem.

The Ramadan fast is one of the five pillars of Islam.  You might ask, "What are the five pillars of Islam?" The Five Pillars of Islam are the five obligations that every Muslim must satisfy in order to live a good and responsible life according to Islam.

The FIVE PILLARS consist of:

Shahadah:  sincerely reciting the Muslim affirmation that there is no deity besides God and his prophet Muhammed

Salat: performing ritual prayers in the proper way five times each day

Zakat: paying an alms (or charity) tax to benefit the poor and the needy.  

Sawm:  fasting during the month of Ramadan

Hajj: pilgrimage to Mecca (taking at least a once in a lifetime pilgrimage to Mecca)

During Ramadan, two main meals are served: suhoor (which is served before dawn) and iftar (which is served after sunset). Suhoor should be a hearty, healthy meal for the day of fasting and ends when the sun rises and the fajr (morning prayer) begins.

At the end of the day when the sun sets, the maghrib prayer starts and the day's fast is broken.  Muslims break their fast by eating dates before beginning of the iftar meal. Both the suhoor and iftar meals contai fresh fruit, vegetables, halal meats, breads, cheeses, sweets and foods that hydrate.  

The types of food served vary by region but are served either at home with family, in the community mosques or other designated places within the Muslim community.



At the end of the Ramadan month, Muslims celebrate the large Festival of Fast-Breaking, called Eid al-Fitr. Muslims celebrate with family and friends, prepare large meals and donate to charity so that poor people can also celebrate.

The Dome of the Rock pictured above is the oldest preserved Islamic structure in the world.

Two weeks ago, we decided to walk down to the Old City and see what might be happening relating to Ramadan. We found most of the shops closed along with empty streets which are usually bustling with crowds of people.

The Old City takes on a different personality when shops are closed and it is easy to get lost because the shops we are familiar with are not open.

                                                                We've never see the streets of the Old City so empty!

We found two shops selling fresh produce. Watermelons are in season and the best we've ever eaten except for those sold in Hagerman, Idaho.  Eggplant and squash are used in many Ramadan dishes.



Photo below: We found a few venders selling what looked like small pancakes and were told they are only sold during Ramadan. We were curious to know what they were.  Shoppers were buying several dozen at a time.  The pancakes below were the size of cookies.








We walked a little further and found our favorite falafel place also making pancakes. The owner told us they were gluten free and only sold during Ramaden so we will have to wait another couple of weeks before he'll be making his famous falafels again.  We bought some so we could see how they tasted like but they very bland. Customers buy them to fill with cheese or nuts and are served as a dessert with honey or syrup.  

A staple type of drink for Ramadan is a mixture of ingredients including coriander, orange, pineapple, carrot, rose petals, spinach and mint.  

Dates and almond milk are usually served when breaking the fast at iftar.

Lentil soup is traditionally served as the first entree at iftar.

Peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, zucchinis and vine leaves are stuffed with flavored rice to make what is commonly known in the Arab world as Mahshi.  Our chefs served this dish at our Arab night dinner and it is delicious!

Wild cats are everywhere in Jerusalem and always looking for scraps of food. It was smart enough to find water.  
Even though the water is safe to drink, I don't think 'll be filling up my water bottle here anymore!

Some might wonder WHY and HOW can a person fast for 30 days?  The more I have learned, the more I appreciate this religious practice because it not only rids the digestive system of toxins but cures and strengthens the metabolism.  It is believed fasting also helps one wind down from worldly stress but I think I'll stick to my music writing instead.  :) 

Here are some interesting facts from the web and explains what happens to your body when you fast for 30 days.

Detoxification Stage 1:

(Day 1 to Day 2)

On the first day of fasting, the blood sugar level drops. The heart slows and blood pressure is reduced. Glycogen is pulled from the muscle causing some weakness. The first wave of cleansing is usually the worst. Headaches, dizziness, nausea, bad breath and a heavily coated tongue are signs of the first stage of cleansing. Hunger can be the most intense in this period.

Detoxification Stage 2: 
(Day 3 To Day 7)

Fats (composed of transformed fatty acids) are broken down to release glycerol from the glyceride molecules and are converted to glucose. The skin may become oily as rancid oils are purged from the body. People with problem-free skin may have a few days of pimples or even a boil. The body embraces the fast and the digestive system is able to take a much-needed rest, focusing all of its energies on cleansing and healing. White blood cell and immune system activity increases. You may feel pain in your lungs. The cleansing organs and the lungs are in the process of being repaired. The breath is still foul and the tongue coated. Within the intestine, the colon is being repaired and impacted feces on the intestinal wall start to loosen.

Detoxification Stage 3: 
(Day 8 to Day 15)

You will experience enhanced energy, clear-mindedness and feel better. On the downside, old injuries may become irritated and painful. This is a result of the body’s increased ability to heal during fasting. If you had broken your arm 10 years before, there is scar tissue around the break. At the time of the break, the body’s ability to heal was directly related to lifestyle. If you lived on a junk-food diet, the body’s natural healing ability was compromised. During fasting, the body’s healing process is at optimum efficiency.

As the body scours for dead or damaged tissue, the lymphocytes enter the older, damaged tissue secreting substances to dissolve the damaged cells. These substances irritate the nerves in the surrounding region and cause a reoccurrence of aches from previously injured areas that may have disappeared years earlier. The pain is good as the body is completing the healing process. The muscles may become tight and sore due to toxin irritation. The legs can be the worst affected, as toxins accumulate in the legs. Cankers are common in this stage due to the excessive bacteria in the mouth. Daily gargling with salt and water will prevent or heal cankers.

Detoxification Stage 4: 
(Day 16 to Day 30)

The body is completely adapted to the fasting process. There is more energy and clarity of mind. Cleansing periods can be short with many days of feeling good in between. There are days when the tongue is pink and the breath is fresh. The healing work of the organs is being completed. After the detoxification mechanisms have removed the causative agent or render it harmless, the body works at maximum capacity in tissue proliferation to replace damaged tissue. After day 20, the mind is affected. Heightened clarity and emotional balance are felt at this time. Memory and concentration improve.

Recent news reported that among the hundreds of thousands of worshippers at the Al-Aqsa Mosque were visitors from a variety of countries: Malaysia; Turkey; South Africa; England and Indonesia. Guards were stationed throughout the Temple Mount compound to keep order and facilitate the entrance and exit of worshippers. 

On the 27th day of Ramadan is "Night of Power" and up to 400,000 worshippers will go to the Temple Mount to pray. Prayer at the conclusion of Ramadan is said to be better than 1,000 months of prayers. Muslims believe that Allah sends blessings and mercy because it was during the time when the Qu'ran was first revealed to Muhammad.

To be continued . . .