Friday, June 16, 2017

RAMADAN - Part II


Last week, the families from the Jerusalem Center were invited to the home of Omar, a vendor who has a wood carving shop in Jerusalem in celebration of
Ramadan. We were invited to enjoy the evening for iftar dinner after his family broke their daily fast. 






We have purchased some of Omar's beautiful olive wood carvings and he is a friend to all of those who serve here. Omar is a very engaging man and has a great family who all live close to each other. Twenty-two of us piled into 5 cars and ventured to his home which overlooked Jerusalem.



Photo:  Looking out from the entrance of Omar's home.



Before dinner was served, the family's  tradition 
was to plug in the outside lights.  


Omer's grandchildren and also the professor's children were excited to "plug in the lights!"


When we entered Omar's home, we were greeted by his entire family (daughters and husbands and children) and saw a very long table set beautifully for everyone.  Since dinner was not quite ready, we were invited to join Omar in his living room where he proudly showed us his collection of artifacts.


His home was lovely and we were fascinated with not only the design of the furniture but also the many interesting framed artifacts on the walls. The center frame on the wall is a bedouin necklace and the smaller side frames showcase bedouin earrings.

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Photo: The Christensens and Rosemary Lind.  Carol and Reg C. lead the tours at the Jerusalem Canter and head up the humanitarian and outreach programs. Rosemary's husband, Brent, is an MD and they take care of the students and housing. Each service couple has a very specific assignment. Everyone works hard with many responsibilities and because we have very little free time, we were delighted we were able to arrange our schedules so we could share the evening together.  


Omar's wife and daughters helped prepare the dinner.


Omar shows Janna C. a very old clay oil lamp dating back centuries.  I love the blue lapis necklace she is wearing.  (Doug bought it for her birthday)


Items in a cabinet in the living room.  


This is an ancient sword used in battle. The vile on the side would contain poison in which the sword would be dipped prior to battle. Omar said the poison would cause almost immediate death to the victim.


This very large wooden plaque has verses from the Qu'ran.  


On the shelf below the wooden plaque was an ancient copy of the Qu'ran.  Notice that the book opens from right to left.  All books in Israel are printed this way and for an American, it is difficult to get used to reading a book the opposite direction and after 16 months, I am still not used to it.  


Bedouin necklaces.




There were several little stools like this in Omar's living room. 
The Palestinian design and tapestry was beautiful.

Photo below:  Omar explained that when the fast is broken and dinner is served, their family always begins the meal with a delicious vegetable soup to help with hydration. Some Muslims break their fast by eating dates.  



In the photo below, you will see Omar's son turning the upside-down rice dish on the plate. This is called maqloubeh and is a traditional Palestinian dish. Every time I see a cook prepare to turn this dish upside-down, it is a moment of suspense . . . a moment of truth, and I find myself holding my breath hoping it will invert as a perfectly layered entree. This is a dish layered with meat, rice and vegetables and spiced with special seasonings of cinnamon, cardamon, cloves and nutmeg. We were served two types: one was layered with chicken and carrots and another with lamb, cauliflower and eggplant. When I return home, I am going to make this dish. Here is the recipe:


Ingredients:
1lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs or lamb
1/2 fresh cauliflower, cut in medium-sized florets (or, 1 large eggplant, sliced thinly lengthwise, sliced carrots and/or quartered tomatoes)

2 cups rice (basmati or long grain white are best), rinsed

Generous sprinkling of spices: garlic powder, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves (or the first three + pre-mixed Arabic baharat)

2-1/2 or 2-3/4 cups chicken stock or water. 
pinch of saffron or turmeric for color
Cook about 25 minutes, invert and top with toasted pine nuts of slivered almonds
(or browned in olive oil)


The prince charming of Israeli food is always hummus which was originally Lebanese. Hummus is a kind of dip or spread made from crushed chickpeas and mixed with tehina sauce, lemon, olive oil, salt and garlic. 

It can be served in many ways, including as a main dish accompanied by ful (fava beans) and a hard boiled egg, as well as a side dish at a big meal. Hummus has become a very popular side dish because of its high nutritional value and is served in many cafes and restaurants in Israel. You can also find an amazing varieties in small containers at every supermarket. It is delicious to eat with flat bread.  And . . . it’s also very accepted if you wipe clean your hummus plate with a chunk of pita bread. The humus, flatbread and pickled veggies were served along with the soup. 


Everything served was delicious.  The cut up tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers and parsley salad was seasoned with lime juice.  


In the photo, above we have falafels and stuffed eggplant.  

Another entree was mahshi (pictured below), a dish of stuffed zucchinis with rice and meat.  The mahshi was delicious and was one of my favorite entrees. It was made from zucchinis stuffed with flavored rice, tomatoes, red peppers.  I am going to make this recipe soon and if you want to try, here is the recipe.


Step 1: Cut the end stalks of zucchini squash then with an apple corer, hollow out the center and seeds. 

Step 2: Fill a bowl with water and add 1 tsp salt. Wash the zucchini in the salted water (this helps to keep them firm when cooking), then drain.

Step 3:  Fill each zucchini with the stuffing, leaving room at the top to allow the filling to expand. It’s easiest to fill the zucchini by hand, tapping them on the bench every now to settle the stuffing down. If you have any leftover stuffing, shape into meatballs.

Step 4: Stuffing
1 cup long-grain rice, washed
1/2 lb. ground beef or turkey

1 medium tomato, finely diced
½ onion, finely diced
⅓ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
⅓ cup chopped mint
⅓ cup chopped coriander
¼ tsp chili powder
1 tsp allspice
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp salt
a little butter, softened
2 tbs olive oil

Step 5: Fill a large saucepan with water and add 2 tbsp salt and the tomato paste. Add the stuffed zucchini and any meatballs and bring to the boil. Simmer over low heat for about 1 hour, allowing the sauce to reduce. Serve the stuffed zucchini with a little of the sauce and a dollop of yogurt.


Pictured above is the other maqloubeh dish cooked with lamb, cauliflower  and thinly sliced eggplant topped with toasted almonds and pine nuts.


Omar's wife was adding toasted almonds to the rice casserole dish.


It was especially nice to sit leisurely and chat with Omar and his family in his own environment. He had a son and also a nephew who attend BYU in Rexburg, Idaho. 


These are falafels, a staple in Israel.  Falafels are a Middle Eastern food that Israelis have found their own way to eat the fried chickpea balls. They are usually served in a pita bread and may also include Arab salad, hummus, German sauerkraut, fried eggplant, pickled mango sauce, Yemeni hot sauce and y last by not least, French fries which seemed SO unusual! When eaten all together, it is quite delicious and was the favorite food when our grandchildren visited Israel.

Here is a step-by-step recipe for making the best authentic vegetarian falafel.

Ingredients:
1 baby arugula
2 cups Chickpeas, dried
3/4 cup Cilantro, fresh leaves
1 tbsp Coriander, ground
1/2 cup Dill, fresh
1 English cucumbers
7 Garlic cloves
1 cup Parsley, fresh leaves
1 Tomatoes

Condiments: 
1 Pickles
1 Tahini sauce

Baking & Spices: 
1 tsp Baking powder
1/2 tsp Baking soda
1 tbsp Black pepper, ground
1 tsp Cayenne pepper
1 Salt
2 tbsp Sesame seeds, toasted

Oils & Vinegars: 
Vegetable or canola oil
Nuts & Seeds
1 tbsp Cumin, ground



I felt so guilty seeing all the dishes stacking up in the kitchen after dinner so I went to help and found Omar's daughters preparing one of the desserts. If you recall in my last blog entry, I mentioned qatayef pancakes that people were buying in the Old City. The pancakes are folded and filled with cheese and nuts. I watched as Omar's daughter carefully drenched each on in corn oil (then rolled them again in the oil before turning them over) before warming them in the oven.  After seeing all that oil, this was one dessert I couldn't bring myself to eat one.



Kataif are the thin, lacy vegan stuffed Arabic pancakes mentioned in my last blog entry. What sets these pancakes apart is that they are cooked only on one side.  The other side is velvety because it is covered with bubbles and apparently this allows the flavors of the filling to permeate the kataif.  Kataif are also called atayef


There are two types of atayef: regular and mini atayef. The regular ones are usually stuffed with a cheese or nut filling then are sealed and baked or fried. Regular atayef are served drizzled with simple syrup. The mini atayef are served without cooking. They are usually filled with cream then are dipped in ground pistachios and served with a drizzle of syrup. 

You can also make the atayef without stuffing them. They are served the way you would serve pancakes but with butter and your favorite syrup. 



Omar's daughter was preparing to fry another one of the desserts. 


Fruit was also served for dessert but we were all so full, I don't 
know how anyone had room to eat anything more!


The black berries in the dish above were "thimble berries" and sugar-sweet!  


Omar's sweet little granddaughter couldn't stay awake and crawled
 under the table as there was no other place she could lie down.



We had a little more friendly conversation after dinner until it was time to go home. We spent a very memorable evening and greatly appreciated the hospitality of Omar and his family. Upon leaving, I asked how often he serves a dinner this big for so many and he said, "Just once during Ramadan when we invite friends." I was greatly relieved to know this was not what the tradition every night of Ramadan or they would need another 30 days to fast just to lose the weight!



This was an experience we will never forget!
Ramadan ends Sunday, June 25.


The last Friday of Ramadan, half a million people are 
expected to pray at the Temple Mount.

Saturday, June 10, 2017

RAMADAN in the Holy Land

Palestinian flag
Once each year, Muslims all over Israel join other Muslims around the world taking part in the religious practice known as Ramadan. According to the Muslim calendar, it was believed to be the ninth lunar month when the first verses of the Qur'an were revealed to the Prophet Mohammed.  

After living in Jerusalem for more than one year, we have become accustomed to the names of territories (West Bank and Gaza Strip) governed by the Israeli government and places we are not allowed to travel to. The two areas are collectively known as Palestine and are greatly disputed over between the government of Israel and the government of the Palestine. Muslims occupy 80-85% of the population of the West Bank and 99% of the population of the Gaza Strip.

In 2000, a barrier wall was built to stop the wave of violence inside Israel but has made it even more difficult for Muslims living in the West Bank and Gaza Strip to leave and pray at the Al-Aqsa Mosque not only during Ramadan but also Fridays when they also pray at the Temple Mount.  Not just Muslims, but all others living in the West Bank do not have the freedom to come and go freely. They must have permits and pass through checkpoints and barriers and are forbidden the usage of roads from the West Bank. To say the least, it has made life much more difficult for residents in those territories.

On a more positive note, right before the beginning of Ramadan (Friday, 26 May), the Israeli government  announced that it would ease restrictions on Palestinians from the West Bank and Gaza during the entire Muslim holy month of Ramadan.  This also included easier access to the Al-Aqsa Mosque (Jerusalem), and as many as 500 travel permits were issued to allow Muslims coming from abroad flying into the airport in Tel-Aviv.  


In addition, men over the age of 40 and women and children under age 23 will not be required a permit to pray at the Al-Aqsa Mosque on the Temple Mount.  Permits were also issued to men between the ages of 30 to 40 for prayer for the entire month of Ramadan and checkpoint crossings between the West Bank and Israel will remain open for longer times, making it easier for those residents to enter and return for prayers.  Also, up to 200,000 permits for family visits in Israel will be given for the duration of Ramadan without age restrictions. Many other restrictions have been lifted during the whole month resulting in an estimated 300,000 worshipers who will gather at one time on the Temple Mount.  Life for Muslims living in Israel is complicated and this time of year is very important to Muslims and the privilege to pray at Al-Aqsa Mosque.  

(I might mention that Bethlehem is in the West Bank so when tourists come for a visit, they cannot drive a rented car into the city and must walk from the checkpoint.  However, a guide can take them in in his vehicle.)  




What is Ramadan?  Ramadan is a month of submission to Allah, the creator. It is the month of loving, sharing and a month of repentance. The start of Ramadan can vary in different places as people still rely on someone seeing the new moon with the naked eye.  



Observing Ramadan is a core belief of Islam and the time through fasting and abstinence from food drinks and other vices such as smoking, coffee, alcohol, etc. Participants are supposed to focus their mind on prayer, chastity, purification of the body and mind, spirituality and charity. Fasting it to remind one of the importance of self-control and the suffering of the poor. Muslims observing Ramadan are not permitted to eat or drink as soon as the sun rises until dusk throughout the month.

The fast is strictly observed by all adult Muslims.  Children are not required to fast under the age of 9 or even until puberty, but some choose to begin shorter fasts in preparation for their adulthood. The elderly, sick, and mentally ill are exempt from the fasting along with pregnant and those nursing their newborns. In some Muslim communities, people who miss the fasting portion of Ramadan feed the poor and needy during the suhoor and iftar meals.  



Photo:  Al Aqsa Mosque, Temple Mount in Jerusalem (Islam’s third-holiest site)   



After the evening meal, Muslims go to the Temple Mount and pray.

I was talking with one of the employees of the Jerusalem Center this week and he said he goes to pray every night after iftar during the month of Ramadan. 




The first week of Ramadan, the local news stated a grand total of 280,000 people from East Jerusalem and the West Bank went to Al-Aqsa Mosque for Friday prayers to mark the start of Ramadan.

While Muslims do not celebrate the Sabbath like Jews or Christians, they do have a day of prayer which is Friday.  The word for Friday in Arabic comes from the name for the special prayer that is done only on that day. Friday is the day Muslims are expected to pray at a mosque but on all other days of the week they may pray privately.

All men are required to attend Friday prayers but for women it is voluntary. Once inside, men and women pray in separate areas. In some countries, Muslims go to a mosque when the call to prayer is sounded from the nearest minaret or tower. The call is similar to church bells in Christianity, calling people to worship, although the call is considered a prayer because the words are recited from the Qur'an.


Photo:  I took this photo when a guide took us inside Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem.
In places where there is no call to prayer, the tradition of gathering on Friday is still observed. For Muslims, these prayers are a powerful act of remembrance of Allah and an important part of community building. Although inspiring to see, we have learned to avoid Fridays in the Old City due to the crowding of Palestinians coming from prayer at the Temple Mount

Photo:  Muslim inside Al Aqsa Mosque, Temple Mount, Jerusalem.

The Ramadan fast is one of the five pillars of Islam.  You might ask, "What are the five pillars of Islam?" The Five Pillars of Islam are the five obligations that every Muslim must satisfy in order to live a good and responsible life according to Islam.

The FIVE PILLARS consist of:
Shahadah:  sincerely reciting the Muslim affirmation that there is no deity besides God and his prophet Muhammed
Salat: performing ritual prayers in the proper way five times each day
Zakat: paying an alms (or charity) tax to benefit the poor and the needy.  
Sawm:  fasting during the month of Ramadan
Hajj: pilgrimage to Mecca (taking at least a once in a lifetime pilgrimage to Mecca)



During Ramadan, two main meals are served: suhoor (which is served before dawn) and iftar (which is served after sunset). Suhoor should be a hearty, healthy meal for the day of fasting and ends when the sun rises and the fajr (morning prayer) begins.

At the end of the day when the sun sets, the maghrib prayer starts and the day's fast is broken.  Muslims break their fast by eating dates before beginning of the iftar meal. Both the suhoor and iftar meals contai fresh fruit, vegetables, halal meats, breads, cheeses, sweets and foods that hydrate.  


The types of food served vary by region but are served either at home with family, in the community mosques or other designated places within the Muslim community.




At the end of the Ramadan month, Muslims celebrate the large Festival of Fast-Breaking, called Eid al-FitrMuslims celebrate with family and friends, prepare large meals and donate to charity so that poor people can also celebrate.



The Dome of the Rock pictured above is the oldest preserved Islamic structure in the world.





































Two weeks ago, we decided to walk down to the Old City and see what might be happening relating to Ramadan. We found most of the shops closed along with empty streets which are usually bustling with crowds of people.






















The Old City takes on a different personality when shops are closed and it is easy to get lost because the shops we are familiar with are not open.



























                                                                We've never see the streets of the Old City so empty!



We found two shops selling fresh produce. Watermelons are in season and the best we've ever eaten except for those sold in Hagerman, Idaho.  Eggplant and squash are used in many Ramadan dishes.



Photo below: We found a few venders selling what looked like small pancakes and were told they are only sold during Ramadan. We were curious to know what they were.  Shoppers were buying several dozen at a time.  The pancakes below were the size of cookies.








We walked a little further and found our favorite falafel place also making pancakes. The owner told us they were gluten free and only sold during Ramaden so we will have to wait another couple of weeks before he'll be making his famous falafels again.  We bought some so we could see how they tasted like but they very bland. Customers buy them to fill with cheese or nuts and are served as a dessert with honey or syrup.  













































A staple type of drink for Ramadan is a mixture of ingredients including coriander, orange, pineapple, carrot, rose petals, spinach and mint.  






Dates and almond milk are usually served when breaking the fast at iftar.



Lentil soup is traditionally served as the first entree at iftar.


Peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, zucchinis and vine leaves are stuffed with flavored rice to make what is commonly known in the Arab world as Mahshi.  Our chefs served this dish at our Arab night dinner and it is delicious!


Wild cats are everywhere in Jerusalem and always looking for scraps of food. It was smart enough to find water.  
Even though the water is safe to drink, I don't think 'll be filling up my water bottle here anymore!


Some might wonder WHY and HOW can a person fast for 30 days?  The more I have learned, the more I appreciate this religious practice because it not only rids the digestive system of toxins but cures and strengthens the metabolism.  It is believed fasting also helps one wind down from worldly stress but I think I'll stick to my music writing instead.  :) 
Here are some interesting facts from the web and explains what happens to your body when you fast for 30 days.



Detoxification Stage 1:
(Day 1 to Day 2)
On the first day of fasting, the blood sugar level drops. The heart slows and blood pressure is reduced. Glycogen is pulled from the muscle causing some weakness. The first wave of cleansing is usually the worst. Headaches, dizziness, nausea, bad breath and a heavily coated tongue are signs of the first stage of cleansing. Hunger can be the most intense in this period.
Detoxification Stage 2: 
(Day 3 To Day 7)
Fats (composed of transformed fatty acids) are broken down to release glycerol from the glyceride molecules and are converted to glucose. The skin may become oily as rancid oils are purged from the body. People with problem-free skin may have a few days of pimples or even a boil. The body embraces the fast and the digestive system is able to take a much-needed rest, focusing all of its energies on cleansing and healing. White blood cell and immune system activity increases. You may feel pain in your lungs. The cleansing organs and the lungs are in the process of being repaired. The breath is still foul and the tongue coated. Within the intestine, the colon is being repaired and impacted feces on the intestinal wall start to loosen.
Detoxification Stage 3: 
(Day 8 to Day 15)
You will experience enhanced energy, clear-mindedness and feel better. On the downside, old injuries may become irritated and painful. This is a result of the body’s increased ability to heal during fasting. If you had broken your arm 10 years before, there is scar tissue around the break. At the time of the break, the body’s ability to heal was directly related to lifestyle. If you lived on a junk-food diet, the body’s natural healing ability was compromised. During fasting, the body’s healing process is at optimum efficiency.

As the body scours for dead or damaged tissue, the lymphocytes enter the older, damaged tissue secreting substances to dissolve the damaged cells. These substances irritate the nerves in the surrounding region and cause a reoccurrence of aches from previously injured areas that may have disappeared years earlier. The pain is good as the body is completing the healing process. The muscles may become tight and sore due to toxin irritation. The legs can be the worst affected, as toxins accumulate in the legs. Cankers are common in this stage due to the excessive bacteria in the mouth. Daily gargling with salt and water will prevent or heal cankers.

Detoxification Stage 4: 
(Day 16 to Day 30)
The body is completely adapted to the fasting process. There is more energy and clarity of mind. Cleansing periods can be short with many days of feeling good in between. There are days when the tongue is pink and the breath is fresh. The healing work of the organs is being completed. After the detoxification mechanisms have removed the causative agent or render it harmless, the body works at maximum capacity in tissue proliferation to replace damaged tissue. After day 20, the mind is affected. Heightened clarity and emotional balance are felt at this time. Memory and concentration improve.



Recent news reported that among the hundreds of thousands of worshippers at the Al-Aqsa Mosque were visitors from a variety of countries: Malaysia; Turkey; South Africa; England and Indonesia. Guards were stationed throughout the Temple Mount compound to keep order and facilitate the entrance and exit of worshippers. 
On the 27th day of Ramadan is "Night of Power" and up to 400,000 worshippers will go to the Temple Mount to pray. Prayer at the conclusion of Ramadan is said to be better than 1,000 months of prayers. Muslims believe that Allah sends blessings and mercy because it was during the time when the Qu'ran was first revealed to Muhammad.

To be continued . . .